Now, however, with that side of the operation sailing smoothly, we can look forward to more treats from the creative depths of his brewing mind under the Bending Spokes banner. This series has been launched with a bang in the shape of Descent 19, this year's birthday Russian imperial stout (from the man who brewed Australia's first such beer, fact fans).

The beer spent nine months in American oak bourbon barrels before being blended back with a younger batch in May and, well, let's just say it's a bloody ripper. Working through a glass took me back to the joy of encountering some of Murray's early barrel-aged imperial stouts: a sensorial rediscovery of something remarkable. Within the blacker-than-black, viscous liquid you'll find dark fruits, oak, leather, liqueur chocolate, cigars, muscat and more; a beer that just goes on and on and on.